Is it an Allen head bolt? If so you could try using a torx bit of similar size, tap that in and hopefully the shock and the splines will grip and release the bolt [emoji106]

 

It's not. It's a Philips screw. Would a very fine nose pliers work?

 

IF you got a dremel do a deeper cut with it, shop just unscrew then

 

As all above.. the other thing you could try is a flat head and tap that in.. or get yourself an elastic band and put it over the screw driver and push down as you try and undo it.

 

Thanks all. Some of those suggestions I've tried with no success, but the pliers and Dremel will be attempted next.

 

Had the same issue a with my tebe. After no luck with a dremel I ended up butchering the shower screen so I could get to the allen bolts holding the dispersion plate on.

It's distructive but a good excuse to upgrade to a brass dispersion plate & 200 micron IMS shower screen combo.

 

"total destruction method" may be necessary:

* Lever out 2 opposing sides of the screen to form ears; then pinch them together, tightly, with an adjustable wrench.

* Using the wrench to squeeze the ears around the shower bolt, unscrew the screen.

If the bolt won't unscrew, rotate the screen until you can access the 2 allen bolts on the dispersion plate & undo them.

NB Fit a new s/steel hex headed screen bolt when reassembling.

 

Try to cut a slot across the head to use a flat blades screw driver in.

Failing that a set of mole grips tightened round the head should do it.

 

Ha, to be honest the total destruction method sounds like the best bet. Nothing else will budge the screw.

wish me luck

 

Probably too late but another option is to try a JIS screwdriver. The spec is very similar to Philip's but deliberately designed to have less cam out - something to help drive the screws in during production. The Japanese decided to use better torque control. The middle sized JIS fits a lot of different screw sizes.

Even with Philips the usual reason for this problem is a crap screwdriver or using a pozidrive driver on them. The tips also wear out. It's very easy to buy crap screwdrivers these day. CK and Stanley still seem to be ok last time I bought some even though they too like all are using air hardening steel for the tips. JIS screwdrivers can be hard to find but there is usually a set with black handles being sold somewhere. Cheap too. It's worked for me on some Philips screws but I mostly use them on JIS ones.

The usual problem with hex socket screws is the key not the screw especially in small sizes.

There are too many types of drive really

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

John

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One of the problems is that steel & aluminium can form a chemical weld when in contact with water. I used to have a steel framed bike where the aly seatpost was so stuck fast nothing short of milling it out would have shifted it.

 

One of the problems is that steel & aluminium can form a chemical weld when in contact with water. I used to have a steel framed bike where the aly seatpost was so stuck fast nothing short of milling it out would have shifted it.

That might be worse with aluminium and stainless. I took a jet boat engine apart once and a number of the heads on the stainless screws they used sheared off rather than came out. That seemed to be more down to welding rather than the stainless degrading. Surely though shower screens are stainless and the screw should be too.

I came across JIS via dismantling some of my microscopes for cleaning. Some must have been done up by Sumo wrestlers in Japan but where ever they came from they will have used high quality bits to screw things in. Motorcycle fans often also find that they need them. It's what Japan uses,

Personally every time I have trouble with a Philips head I wonder why thing haven't switched to JIS. It seems to be a lot better than Philips.

John

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One of the problems is that steel & aluminium can form a chemical weld when in contact with water. I used to have a steel framed bike where the aly seatpost was so stuck fast nothing short of milling it out would have shifted it.

Caustic soda

 

Caustic soda

Saw a pic of a washing machine where an old dear had used that instead of washing soda. It didn't end well.

 

these worked for me - drill head with one end then use other to remove https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/172247947008?chn=ps&adgroupid=47119442607&rlsatarget=pla-378961783136&abcId=1128926&adtype=pla&merchantid=113588104&poi=&googleloc=1007092&device=c&campaignid=856227598&crdt=0

can get them from screwfix and toolstation as well

 

There's also the external equivalents of those, they are like a bolt/nut socket but have flutes that dig into the metal. There are branded versions such as Irwin and snap-on but also generic versions. They are very effective but probably expensive to buy just for this one-off job.

Not much use in this case (due to me being in Norwich) but if anybody needs to borrow them then please just ask.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Power-Screw-Extractors-Pieces/dp/B000EF1EHY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512666636&sr=8-3&keywords=irwin+remover

 

@TTM If you haven't got one yet, PM me your address & I'll get a stainless hex head screw in the post to you.

 

"total destruction method" may be necessary:

* Lever out 2 opposing sides of the screen to form ears; then pinch them together, tightly, with an adjustable wrench.

* Using the wrench to squeeze the ears around the shower bolt, unscrew the screen.

If the bolt won't unscrew, rotate the screen until you can access the 2 allen bolts on the dispersion plate & undo them.

NB Fit a new s/steel hex headed screen bolt when reassembling.

+1

If that doesn't work and the screen rotates around the screw without unscrewing - file or grind two opposing flats on the edge of the screw and use an adjustable spanner to unscrew it.

 

Thank you, that's a very kind offer. I've actually ordered all of the parts I'll need to rebuild things once Destruction Method has been implemented, so hopefully will have it sorted soon.

 

these worked for me - drill head with one end then use other to remove https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/172247947008?chn=ps&adgroupid=47119442607&rlsatarget=pla-378961783136&abcId=1128926&adtype=pla&merchantid=113588104&poi=&googleloc=1007092&device=c&campaignid=856227598&crdt=0

can get them from screwfix and toolstation as well

Yes these are what I was going to suggest!

 

Saw a pic of a washing machine where an old dear had used that instead of washing soda. It didn't end well.

LOL

Caustic soda has worked for me on a Reynolds 853 & 653 frame, bit of paint damage but it's removed stuck seatposts and bottom bracket cups safely

 

Just a quick update -

Destruction Method was implemented this evening and all went very smoothly. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and tips, hugely appreciated.