but have stripped it down and decaled

I assume that means removing boiler, physically de-scaling the inside and checking all the channels in the group head and in the solenoid.

http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?topic=958.0

Might help if you have a multimeter.

Good luck

 

Aye, had it all in bits and soaked all the boiler, solenoid (in pieces) and pipework, then poked it with various pointy things. I've also run descaling liquid through the machine since reassembling and tried the pulsing steam/ brew at the same time.

I can't quite accept that this thing has randomly stopped working but I'm running out of ideas. People have mentioned it making an audible clicking noise when in use but I can't hear one now. Not that I ever noticed it before.

Thanks for the link, will have to dig the multi meter out.

 

LIVE POWER INSIDE Try placing an insulated screwdriver on the black box with your ear on the handle, you should hear the click as you switch the machine to brew. OR Remove the black box, reattach its leads, hold the box with insulated pliers OR a rubber glove and switch to brew, you should feel the click.

REMEMBER THIS IS 240 VOLT ELECTRICITY. TAKE EXTREME CARE.

 

Update on this.

I tried both the insulated screwdriver and holding the box on a confirmed working solenoid i couldnt hear a click with either. Just for anyone else trying to diagnose using this method

Ive instead swapped out the faulty unit for a working one and checked that way. The broken machine works fine with the swapped out coil.

So faulty solenoid confirmed.

Now just to get a new coil, is it worth just buying a coil or replacing the whole valve? Differing opinions on the internet.

Im finding the different types of solenoid a bit confusing. Can anyone point out the correct type. I see a lot of ceme models on ebay but i know there's a smaller(inferior?) model right?

I have a 2005 classic snd the fsulty solenoid is a Parker brand.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

I replaced the original with a Parker ZB09 its slightly smaller overall but the ID fits the valve just fine.

I did try all the recommended ways of testing the coil on a faulty and a working coil and I couldn't hear or a feel a click on either... in case anyone else tries it.