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The photos show the valve partly disassembled, and inside is a seal similar to the one in the top of an E61 group. The O rings on the shaft stop it leaking paste the stem when it's opened and the brass piece pushes the seal deep inside in against the spring....which opens the valve....If it's leaking. I have shown the inside of a similar valve mechanism in the diagram below.

View attachment 60845

this is the nut that I believe has to be undone to get to the internal seat of the valve and you have to hold the nut at at the rear of the panel to get it off...but check this with Paolo, in case things have changed.

View attachment 60849

View attachment 60847
Slightly different on the new arm. I removed the toggle (same as your first picture - greased as shown), then unscrewed to wand connection which has a sprung metal (cartridge?) and also an o-ring. I greased the ring and cartridge/spring in the same way as the first. Seems successful so far. Left on for an hour and no leaks, although longer needed to be sure.

Could well be more in the remaining part, but I thought I'd leave that for now as it meant taking the top off to get behind, and leaning towards laziness and quick fix!

I g
 
@danielpugh please tell me you took photos?
I can take photos when my machine cools down. Basically the water spout portion has 2 failsafes to prevent leaks as there are two spring mechanisms before the main one. The wand has a spring mechanism which pushes on both the one coming from the boiler and also another on the water spout itself.

Slightly different on the new arm. I removed the toggle (same as your first picture - greased as shown), then unscrewed to wand connection which has a sprung metal (cartridge?) and also an o-ring. I greased the ring and cartridge/spring in the same way as the first. Seems successful so far. Left on for an hour and no leaks, although longer needed to be sure.

Could well be more in the remaining part, but I thought I'd leave that for now as it meant taking the top off to get behind, and leaning towards laziness and quick fix!

I g
So did my instructions help or did you do something different?
 
I can take photos when my machine cools down. Basically the water spout portion has 2 failsafes to prevent leaks as there are two spring mechanisms before the main one. The wand has a spring mechanism which pushes on both the one coming from the boiler and also another on the water spout itself.

So did my instructions help or did you do something different?
Sorry hectic few days of work. Yes instructions helped a great deal, and now seems sorted. Thank you!
 
I just wanted to post my experiences with the Evo.

First of all: Damn this machine looks nice! I love the feel of the lever action. No squeaking of the lever or dripping of the valves.

Setup was easy. However, the brew boiler was constanly overshooting by about 4 degrees over the set temperature and from there on slowly falling down which could take about 10 minutes (the boiler seems to be pretty well insulated). For me the PID settings that solved the problem were: Kp = 0.7; Ki = 0.03; Kd = 12; B = 50.

B = 50 did the trick for me. With B = 20 I still had 3 degrees overshoot. I don't know why, but since everything works fine now (plus minus 0.5 around set temperature for group and boilers) I don't care anymore :D

Is there any new data on shots with the SSP 98mm HU burrs? @Denis S Thanks a lot for your post outlining that they might not be the best choice due to the high pressure rise of the lever if running with both levers installed.
Since I only have the machine for a couple of days so please take this with a grain of salt.

What I observed with the HU burrs in an EK43 is that the shot starts out great (visually), but then the stream quickly thins out and the flow rate increases (maybee the puck breaking down). Might be due to the combination of comparably low fines in combination with the high pressure of the lever. I did not really observe this with my Lelit set to 6-7 bar pressure.

However: The shots already taste quite good and with the (in comparison to my former Lelit Bianca) ridiculously accurate temperature control, there is still so much potential to make better shots. So I wouldn't say the HU burrs are a "bad" companion to the Evo in any way.
 
Easy to pull on Niche and Leversaurus beans that were impossible on Decent and Niche (remember I already had a black Niche 16 months ago with Decent) and i'm not much smarter that I was back then.

17 g doses (niche needs longer brew time compared to previous grinders and because of that a bit higher temp even on light roast)

9-9.5 TDS range with 23-23.5% EY for ratios I go with 17 g in 40-43.5 g out for now, but will give the 1-2 ratio a go in the future.







 

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Has anyone been pulling light roasts with lower temps on their EVOS? I have a light roast Ethiopian where I did two shots today at 88c and 90c at the group and they both ended up very sweet. The 88c shot had a smidgen more acidity when combined with the sweetness produced a really tasty shot.

The bean profile listed raspberry and the shot I got at 88c was something reminiscent of raspberry preservers which I found super tasty.

This is going against everything you hear regurgitated online that light roasts need higher temps.
 
Has anyone been pulling light roasts with lower temps on their EVOS? I have a light roast Ethiopian where I did two shots today at 88c and 90c at the group and they both ended up very sweet. The 88c shot had a smidgen more acidity when combined with the sweetness produced a really tasty shot.

The bean profile listed raspberry and the shot I got at 88c was something reminiscent of raspberry preservers which I found super tasty.

This is going against everything you hear regurgitated online that light roasts need higher temps.
Light roast = filter roast for you? What grinder are you using? What ratios were you using? And what time did you roughly get?

I've been trying filters on my machine but haven't got anything that I would be proud of. 'Been extracting at 95 boiler/87group.
 
I did not move from anything. It seems people dont want to hear about this type of things, after they spent 3k on a lagom p100, right?

I did not change my bentwood neither did I made the post to say the bentwood got beaten by a Niche to troll. In my post I did not even compare grinders or speak about comparing them, I dont want to do that because I found out it depends on what machine you have, leave aside the water you use (custom made with certain concentration of minerals).

I made the post to show that with the proper machine/technique you can make really good tasting espresso out of filter roasts (with high numbers if you care about those too, I dont anymore) with a Niche. And now people accuse me of trolling, so I showed that Gardelli is using the niche in his coffee shop to pull single dosing out of his roasts.

So who is trolling now? me with proofs, or the people who spent 3k on a Lagom p100 and are not able to make good coffee?
 
I did not move from anything. It seems people dont want to hear about this type of things, after they spent 3k on a lagom p100, right?

I did not change my bentwood neither did I made the post to say the bentwood got beaten by a Niche to troll. In my post I did not even compare grinders or speak about comparing them, I dont want to do that because I found out it depends on what machine you have, leave aside the water you use (custom made with certain concentration of minerals).

I made the post to show that with the proper machine/technique you can make really good tasting espresso out of filter roasts (with high numbers if you care about those too, I dont anymore) with a Niche. And now people accuse me of trolling, so I showed that Gardelli is using the niche in his coffee shop to pull single dosing out of his roasts.

So who is trolling now? me with proofs, or the people who spent 3k on a Lagom p100 and are not able to make good coffee?
Can you link you espresso guide roast? I wanna try it this afternoon?
 
Hi Denis

I'm a bit muddled by your response - I only asked about the Bentwood as I wondered whether you might be thinking of selling it!

As I think I mentioned some time ago I've got a 2nd hand Ceado E37S which cost me around £500 not a Lagom p100! Also, I don't think I've ever said anything about trolling on any forum.

I was also wondering whether you might compare the Bentwood with the Niche as it would be interesting. I understand you have tons of experience with different grinders and I'm actually very interested in what you have to say about them both.

Ah well …

Cheers Bill
My response about the p100 was not to you, sorry if you took it like that. Right now there are hyped products and trends to follow. I jumped off the ssp train some time ago (about 16 months ago?) when I dedicated to swap my SSP 98mm hu burrs in my aligned ek with a rare pair of turkish pre2015 cast burrs. Those burrs produced a better espresso than ssp 98mm HU.

Then I got the bentwood (for various reasons, one of them being it has no ssp, it would be that or Ditting, but I dont like the dittings) We are speaking of single dose grinders here.

I think the lever helps much more with the extraction, and the sweetness and the aftertaste than any other pump modern machine would. So if you have a gs3, or a mina, or a Bianca I believe the lever would work easier and have much faster better results compared to those, no matter what grinder you pair it with. So right now saying grinder X is bad and grinder Y is good, it's pointless.

I am getting far superior results with the lever and the niche (leave aside the workflow that is non existent, grind tap tamp on Niche) then I did with bentwood or ek43 or ultra with the Decent. So this doesnt mean that the Niche is a better grinder, it just works much better on the lever for me, on dark to light roasts.

While pulling some shots in the last days, for sure I do need to step up in temp to 103/104 brew boiler with 94 grouphead.

To have a comparison of facts:
on ssp 64 unimodal and 98mm hu in ultra I had to pull at a much lower temp: 86 group and 94 boiler - extraction temp 90C

on bentwood I had to pull at 98 boiler and 90 group - extraction temp 94 C

on the Niche even on light stuff (Gardelli) I have to be at 103/104 brew boiler and 94 group - extraction temp close to 100C?

Yes the weather now changed, and the temp here dropped from 15-18C to bellow 7C so that might also have to do a tiny bit with it but I still believe on the Niche you need a much higher temp.

Since coarser grind is much easier to work with, it demands no puck prep, no WDT, niche has 0 clumps even when grinding at 6 on dial (espresso is at 9-15 for me) this in relation to the high temp makes me believe that the Niche has less fines overall in relation to the total particles and more boulders compared to Bentwood and ssp (the king of fines).

So having a much lower temp extracts the fines less and makes you grind coarser, having a clear taste (that is what you do for SSP). The bentwood would be positioned in between a Niche and SSP, with less fines than SSP and more fines than Niche.

For me the Niche doesnt work for brewing, so i'm sticking to my Bentwood that does a great job.

I do not do anything fancy on niche, 17g grind for a 30-35 sec shot, my water is 150-180ppm (similar to TWW water 40buffer/140Mg) I preinfuse for 12-16 sec and pull the shot for the rest for ~40g out.

Temp is 103/94, I use bplus and the small ims basket that is made for 18g.
 
which is what i commend @Denis S for coming out and openly stating he wasn't a fan of his decent, when i did that about londinium i got shot down pretty quickly,

at the end of the day were all niche (not the grinder) users, lets face it anyone who spends £1000 on making a brew needs their heads testing? correct
You might be right😂
 
Light roast = filter roast for you? What grinder are you using? What ratios were you using? And what time did you roughly get?

I've been trying filters on my machine but haven't got anything that I would be proud of. 'Been extracting at 95 boiler/87group.
I guess you can call it filter roast. My local roaster just calls it light roast.

Grinder is a eureka Drogheria 85 with mythos 2 non-coated burrs. 2:1 ratio 18g in, 36g out. Total extraction time is prob around 40 secs as I don't count preinfusion and then ~28s extraction from first drips.

I've done shots on these beans as low as 88c and as high as 96c and based on the temps.

Lower temps - fruitiness goes up along with acidity.

Higher temps - fruits go away but more body.

I don't like the taste at anything above 92. They are still good shots but generic tasting if that makes any sense.
 
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