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1 group lever from ACS - Vostok 1 group

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1 group dual boiler lever vostok
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#1,541 ·
Day 4-

I have tried raising the boiler temperature (in stages)...and then reducing the boiler temperature (in stages) and the same with the group temperature.

I have come back to 95C group and 99C boiler....and the results are very nice indeed!

I am running 3 of my Dalian roasts concurrently.

*A Guatemalan

*Costa Rican San Jorge and

*Peru Ceja de Selva

They were all roasted to a medium level 5 days ago and have been stored in an Airscape cannister in the fridge.

I am grinding on a Helor Stance Motor to the level of fineness that starts the first drip from the naked portafilter between 7 and 10 seconds. I am leaving the springs to do their magic and not assisting or retarding the lever at all (yet). I am finishing the shot just as blonding starts.

I am using an IMS basket and 20gm of coffee...as well as a top screen (swapping amongst BPlus, a trimmed Dutch stainless disc and a trimmed Aeropress stainless filter) which keeps coffee powder from contaminating and clogging the Evo shower screen and also helps to keep the coffee puck intact beautifully.

I have a leveller and a Joe Frex tamper that are size-matched to the IMS basket....and it is all coming together for me nicely indeed.

I won't comment on tasting nuances like caramels, mushrooms or grasshoppers but will say that the resulting pours are already smooth, robust, crema-rich and very satisfying.

Call it a honeymoon period perhaps....but I would be very happy to merely maintain these extractions. (Although I have a hunch that I have just scratched the tip of the espresso iceberg with this machine.)
 
#1,544 · (Edited by Moderator)
Paolo5 said:
Maybe it's just me (and I KNOW that plenty of people will disagree with me) but I think that roasted beans that haven't been stored thoughtfully are already beyond their best after 10 days. :classic_ohmy:
Click to expand...
with cheap green beans, or improper roast yes, you are right.

Some darker roasts are good to go after 5 days, but in the end you drink it how you like it.
 
Discussion starter · #1,548 · (Edited by Moderator)
#1,551 ·
Spent the morning making this piston removal tool as discussed in previous posts.


I anticipated that the piston would be really tight and would need some serious torque to get it loose. Turns out that it freed very easily, no locking compound used, much simpler tools would have done the job, so this tool is a bit of overkill. Still, it will be handy for adjusting seal compression in-situ and when turned round it can be used to push the screen out from the top.
 

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#1,553 ·
Paolo5 said:
Day 4-

I have tried raising the boiler temperature (in stages)...and then reducing the boiler temperature (in stages) and the same with the group temperature.

I have come back to 95C group and 99C boiler....and the results are very nice indeed!

I am running 3 of my Dalian roasts concurrently.

*A Guatemalan

*Costa Rican San Jorge and

*Peru Ceja de Selva

They were all roasted to a medium level 5 days ago and have been stored in an Airscape cannister in the fridge.

I am grinding on a Helor Stance Motor to the level of fineness that starts the first drip from the naked portafilter between 7 and 10 seconds. I am leaving the springs to do their magic and not assisting or retarding the lever at all (yet). I am finishing the shot just as blonding starts.

I am using an IMS basket and 20gm of coffee...as well as a top screen (swapping amongst BPlus, a trimmed Dutch stainless disc and a trimmed Aeropress stainless filter) which keeps coffee powder from contaminating and clogging the Evo shower screen and also helps to keep the coffee puck intact beautifully.

I have a leveller and a Joe Frex tamper that are size-matched to the IMS basket....and it is all coming together for me nicely indeed.

I won't comment on tasting nuances like caramels, mushrooms or grasshoppers but will say that the resulting pours are already smooth, robust, crema-rich and very satisfying.

Call it a honeymoon period perhaps....but I would be very happy to merely maintain these extractions. (Although I have a hunch that I have just scratched the tip of the espresso iceberg with this machine.)
Click to expand...
Out of interest, what kind of shots are you pulling?
 
#1,554 · (Edited by Moderator)
Norvin said:
I anticipated that the piston would be really tight and would need some serious torque to get it loose. Turns out that it freed very easily, no locking compound used, much simpler tools would have done the job, so this tool is a bit of overkill. Still, it will be handy for adjusting seal compression in-situ and when turned round it can be used to push the screen out from the top
Click to expand...
Thank you for posting this. It is good to hear it came off easily.

I guess you used a plier wrench to remove the group from the top. Did you have to use jaws protect sleeves to avoid damaging the 4 nuts

Considering, it was easier to remove the piston, do you think a boa constrictor / a strap wrench would be enough please ?

Of course, one could make something quickly out of a PVC pipe or source one from you 😁

We may not know how difficult it would be if one doesn't have to remove it, say for a year or more. Thx
 
#1,555 ·
Like Medium Strong Coffee said:
Thank you posting this. It is good to hear it came off easily.

I guess you used a plier wrench to remove the group from the top. Did you have to use jaws protect sleeves to avoid damaging the 4 nuts

Considering, it was easier to remove the piston, do you think a boa constrictor / a strap wrench would be enough please ?

Of course, one could make something quickly out of a PVC pipe or source one from you 😁

We may not know how difficult it would if one doesn't have to remove it, say for a year or more. Thx
Click to expand...
No need for pliers, just undo the four acorn nuts with a 10 mm ring spanner, they're not tight, and the top of the group lifts off. A strap wrench,"C" spanner or adapted PVC should do it, no need for vices, stilsons etc.
 
#1,557 ·
I'm not familiar with this group. Let me get this right:

you can remove the entire group/piston from above (ofc) and then you can unscrew the piston to easy change the bottom seal? or why you would want to remove the piston?

In my head, you want to remove the piston if you want to remove the entire thing to get one spring replaced, or remove 1 spring, am I right?

I guess the springs are held by another nut/locking thing even if you remove the piston head, so they dont decompress.

The gasket can be changed w/o removing the piston head, or not?
 
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