What?
This easy mod is to re-route the water discharged from the overpressure valve (OPV) so that instead of being dumped in the drip tray and wasted, it will get reused in the machine. The mod is easy, cheap, invisible, and completely reversible.
Why?
One of the very few complaints about the Mara X is that it dumps the OPV discharge water into the drip tray. Re-routing will (a) reduce water waste; (b) reduce the water that ends in the drip tray. This results in less need to fill the tank and less emptying of the tray.
How much water will be saved? Is this worth doing?
The amount of OPV water discharge varies by shot time and puck resistance (For example, @disq measured that 85ml of water was reclaimed in a ~49-second shot; My own experiment showed that water in the drip tray after one heating cycle and shot reduced from 125mm before re-routing to 40mm after - so about the same). This is not a huge amount, but it adds up, and if you invest in the water (bottled, re-mineralise, etc.), you might not want to through it away and fill the drip tray with it.
So why does Lelit dump the water into the drip tray? Is there a disadvantage to re-routing?
Many (most) tanked machines return the OPV discharge water back to the tank. (e.g. Gaggia Classic, Rancilio Silvia, Lelit Elizabeth and more). This was also the case in the first prototype of the Mara X, but that was changed in the production model.
According to @DavecUK, the dumping of the water to the drip tray was meant to enable provision for a neat in-tank filter in the bottom-fed water tank, with no messy tubes entering from the top. However, you can do this mod and still use the in-tank filter; and if you don't use the filter - it's even easier.
How hard is it to do the mode?
This mod is very easy. I took my time and maybe spent an hour, but the actual job is very quick: just pop a few tubes from their fittings and connect them differently.
What parts are needed?
The mod requires two 3-way 6mm connectors (cost £6) and that's it. I used one Y-shape and one T-shape, but you can do it with two Y connectors. I used brass for durability and heat resistance, but you might be able to get away with plastic connectors).
Y connector: BRASS barbed Hose "Y" Splitter Joiner Connector. Available in 4 sizes | eBay
T connector: SOLID BRASS barbed Hose "T" splitter/joiner/connector. Available in 6 sizes | eBay
(Halfords sell a pair of plastic Y connectors if you don't want to wait for brass to come in the post: Halfords Hose Connector Y Piece 6mm HFX373 | Halfords UK).
Optional parts:
@DavecUK suggested fitting a one-way no-return valve if you want to keep using the in-tank filter: One Way Valve Sprung Plastic Barbed Non-Return Inline Water Air Car Gas Liquid | eBay. (This part is to ensure that water from the OPV discharge will not push back to the tank, potentially lifting the in-tank filter from its seat).
@MediumRoastSteam suggested using cable ties on the connections to secure them, and extra silicone tubing so that you can keep the original tubing intact if you want to reverse the mod. I didn't use cable ties as my fittings a barbed and seem very secure as they are. I also didn't need any extra tubing: I 'borrowed' 4-5cm of tube from the in-tank hose loop that I don't need (because I don't use the filter), and kept the original tubes inside the machine intact (so everything is reversible to original condition). However, I found that the tube from the bottom of the tank to the pump is long enough, so if I wanted I could do all the connections without any need for extra tubing borrowed from the tank.
I am convinced, what do I need to do (see pics below)?
1) Remove the top panel and the main part of the case of the machine. See instructions in DaveC's excellent video here:
2) Identify the OPV (pic below). Follow the hose that comes out of it. It terminates in a brass X connector.
3) Carefully remove the OPV hose from the X connector, and re-route it behind the boiler to the other side of the machine (to where the hose from the bottom of the tank enters the pump - pic below).
4) Either cut the hose connected to the pump a few cm above the entry and connect the T connector to the hose (or use a few cm of new hose to connect the T connector to the pump's entry). Use the free connection on the T to connect the hose from the OPV. That's the re-routing of the OPV discharge done.**
5) (optional): if you want to use the in-tank filter, connect a one-way (no-return) valve on the hose between the tank and the pump. This will ensure the OPV discharge water will not return to the tank and push against the filter (I didn't do this stage).
6) To finish the job, go back to the X connector where the OPV discharge hose was originally connected. Remove the 3 remaining hoses that are connected to the X connector (safety valve, solenoid, and drip tray), and connect them to the new Y hose connector. Secure the connections with cable ties if you want (I didn't), and also secure the Y connector to the electrical wires (as it was originally with the X connector). (Bottom pic shows this before and after)
**An even simpler option: Just follow steps 1-3 and 6, but after removing the OPV discharge hose from the X connector route it back to the water tank (requires making a cut in the top of the tank so that the cover of the tank can sit flush), or route the hose to a bottle next to or under the machine. Both these options are possible but of course less elegant than the proposed full mod.
That's it, all done. (To be safe, it might be a good idea to run the machine (carefully) with the case off to see that everything is working as it should and you have no leaks before fitting back the case (to be honest, I didn't bother).
Enjoy the machine with less water waste and less emptying of drip tray. 😊
Credits and thanks: @DavecUK, @disq, @MediumRoastSteam and all other fantastic members here for their support and contribution.
This easy mod is to re-route the water discharged from the overpressure valve (OPV) so that instead of being dumped in the drip tray and wasted, it will get reused in the machine. The mod is easy, cheap, invisible, and completely reversible.
Why?
One of the very few complaints about the Mara X is that it dumps the OPV discharge water into the drip tray. Re-routing will (a) reduce water waste; (b) reduce the water that ends in the drip tray. This results in less need to fill the tank and less emptying of the tray.
How much water will be saved? Is this worth doing?
The amount of OPV water discharge varies by shot time and puck resistance (For example, @disq measured that 85ml of water was reclaimed in a ~49-second shot; My own experiment showed that water in the drip tray after one heating cycle and shot reduced from 125mm before re-routing to 40mm after - so about the same). This is not a huge amount, but it adds up, and if you invest in the water (bottled, re-mineralise, etc.), you might not want to through it away and fill the drip tray with it.
So why does Lelit dump the water into the drip tray? Is there a disadvantage to re-routing?
Many (most) tanked machines return the OPV discharge water back to the tank. (e.g. Gaggia Classic, Rancilio Silvia, Lelit Elizabeth and more). This was also the case in the first prototype of the Mara X, but that was changed in the production model.
According to @DavecUK, the dumping of the water to the drip tray was meant to enable provision for a neat in-tank filter in the bottom-fed water tank, with no messy tubes entering from the top. However, you can do this mod and still use the in-tank filter; and if you don't use the filter - it's even easier.
How hard is it to do the mode?
This mod is very easy. I took my time and maybe spent an hour, but the actual job is very quick: just pop a few tubes from their fittings and connect them differently.
What parts are needed?
The mod requires two 3-way 6mm connectors (cost £6) and that's it. I used one Y-shape and one T-shape, but you can do it with two Y connectors. I used brass for durability and heat resistance, but you might be able to get away with plastic connectors).
Y connector: BRASS barbed Hose "Y" Splitter Joiner Connector. Available in 4 sizes | eBay
T connector: SOLID BRASS barbed Hose "T" splitter/joiner/connector. Available in 6 sizes | eBay
(Halfords sell a pair of plastic Y connectors if you don't want to wait for brass to come in the post: Halfords Hose Connector Y Piece 6mm HFX373 | Halfords UK).
Optional parts:
@DavecUK suggested fitting a one-way no-return valve if you want to keep using the in-tank filter: One Way Valve Sprung Plastic Barbed Non-Return Inline Water Air Car Gas Liquid | eBay. (This part is to ensure that water from the OPV discharge will not push back to the tank, potentially lifting the in-tank filter from its seat).
@MediumRoastSteam suggested using cable ties on the connections to secure them, and extra silicone tubing so that you can keep the original tubing intact if you want to reverse the mod. I didn't use cable ties as my fittings a barbed and seem very secure as they are. I also didn't need any extra tubing: I 'borrowed' 4-5cm of tube from the in-tank hose loop that I don't need (because I don't use the filter), and kept the original tubes inside the machine intact (so everything is reversible to original condition). However, I found that the tube from the bottom of the tank to the pump is long enough, so if I wanted I could do all the connections without any need for extra tubing borrowed from the tank.
I am convinced, what do I need to do (see pics below)?
1) Remove the top panel and the main part of the case of the machine. See instructions in DaveC's excellent video here:
2) Identify the OPV (pic below). Follow the hose that comes out of it. It terminates in a brass X connector.
3) Carefully remove the OPV hose from the X connector, and re-route it behind the boiler to the other side of the machine (to where the hose from the bottom of the tank enters the pump - pic below).
4) Either cut the hose connected to the pump a few cm above the entry and connect the T connector to the hose (or use a few cm of new hose to connect the T connector to the pump's entry). Use the free connection on the T to connect the hose from the OPV. That's the re-routing of the OPV discharge done.**
5) (optional): if you want to use the in-tank filter, connect a one-way (no-return) valve on the hose between the tank and the pump. This will ensure the OPV discharge water will not return to the tank and push against the filter (I didn't do this stage).
6) To finish the job, go back to the X connector where the OPV discharge hose was originally connected. Remove the 3 remaining hoses that are connected to the X connector (safety valve, solenoid, and drip tray), and connect them to the new Y hose connector. Secure the connections with cable ties if you want (I didn't), and also secure the Y connector to the electrical wires (as it was originally with the X connector). (Bottom pic shows this before and after)
**An even simpler option: Just follow steps 1-3 and 6, but after removing the OPV discharge hose from the X connector route it back to the water tank (requires making a cut in the top of the tank so that the cover of the tank can sit flush), or route the hose to a bottle next to or under the machine. Both these options are possible but of course less elegant than the proposed full mod.
That's it, all done. (To be safe, it might be a good idea to run the machine (carefully) with the case off to see that everything is working as it should and you have no leaks before fitting back the case (to be honest, I didn't bother).
Enjoy the machine with less water waste and less emptying of drip tray. 😊
Credits and thanks: @DavecUK, @disq, @MediumRoastSteam and all other fantastic members here for their support and contribution.