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Wilfa Svart - Motor cuts out

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73K views 65 replies 33 participants last post by  Rincewind  
#1 ·
The motor for my Wilfa Svart grinder has started to cut out immediately (< 1sec) after pressing start. If you repeatedly cycle the start button it will repeatedly start, but cuts out instantly each time. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Is the machine a write off or is there something that anyone would suggest trying?

I have actually already had a refund from the manufacturer but they were not able to send a replacement due to Brexit, so I thought id give fixing it a try.
 
#37 ·
I am also experiencing this problem. I found this thread a while ago from the r\coffee subreddit, which might explain why this is getting so much traffic.

Mine stalls a lot and the speed pulses (much slower than it was when new) even when not under load.

I've accidentally bought the wrong capacitance - I've got 0.68uf - hope that doesn't matter?!

So far I've had two challenges.

1. I cannot get the timer knob off. I don't want to resort to pliers, but at this rate, I might have to.

2. Accessing the recessed screws was not fun. I did find that a 0.4 X 2.5mm flat precision bit will work instead of triangle drive bits, but I had to mill my screwdriver extender to be narrower to reach them! Now I've done that, I return to point 1!
 
#38 ·
I've accidentally bought the wrong capacitance - I've got 0.68uf - hope that doesn't matter?!
I'm not really into the schematics of the electronics, but since the grinder did start, though sporadically with xx nf, I'd guess it should work with the 0.68uf one. It might be a bit off with the timing of the timer, but you can just adjust it down.

I cannot get the timer knob off. I don't want to resort to pliers, but at this rate, I might have to.
I used a one of these, with a little insert to not scar the timer nob:
Image
 
#42 ·
A very useful discussion - I have the same problem with my new ( November 2021) Wilfa Aroma grinder, which seems to be the current name for the Svart. The online retailer , Coffee Friend has told me that ' in this case a refund will be proceeded' so I'm waiting ... It seems to be long standing problem with this machine, and I wonder why the manufacturer has not taken steps to put it right. . The registration number on the base is 3/21 so I assume that is the date of manufacture. Electronics not being my forte I won't try and repair it. I will look for a local business which does small electrical repairs and hope to get it working. Otherwise ebay or the bin!
 
#43 · (Edited by Moderator)
Took out the grey .33uf cap.... replaced with this 0.33uF 275v capacitor

That was the easy part.

Honestly that case!!!! ... I was on my last try and it finally came together, was actually just gonna throw the whole thing out and be done with it.

Don't bother tightening the bottom screws (ones you need long screwdriver for) unless you see everything line up as it was before you opened it.
 
#44 ·
I just wanted to say a big thank you!!!

I found a Wilfa Svart Grinder on ebay and just searched on Google with the despcirption of whats not working. I came to this forum entry and said "Well, lets give it a try".

Bought the grinder for around 8 Euro, a new cap, and after managing to solder it in (and put that damn case back on) the grinder works perfectly!

Thank you for this forum entry and the instructions given! I just got a good grinder for very little money :)
 
#47 ·
@kmic to properly check the value of a capacitor accurately you either need to remove the capacitor from the circuit, isolate it from it's neighbouring circuitry or lift/de-solder one of it's 2 legs/post/wires (dependent on type) from the circuit as the other components in the circuit will affect the reading on your meter/instrument (i.e wrong value).
 
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#48 ·
That’s why I stated those are values on board, so others don’t need to de‑solder to check (they should have similar values on a working model from around 12/20).
I finally unscrewd lower burr with a wheel wrench and rubber.
Now I will try to adjust burrs spacing and we are back in business.
 
#51 ·
Hello just wanted to make an account to share that I was having the same issue and fixed it with this guide. Never attempted anything like this before so big feeling of relief to see it working and back to normal. Big thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. My gf doesn't understand why I spent £50 on parts and about 5 hours labour to fix a grinder that was still under warranty, but honestly it was worth it. Very fun little project.
 
#52 ·
Hey there, I just signed up to thank everyone for their advice regarding this fix. My machine is now as good as new! I also wanted to share a few notes and things that were different about my grinder, maybe there was a redesign or something:

  • Mine had no screws holding down the hopper microswitch, it was just slotted onto two posts.
  • The PCB looked different to the photos posted so far, and the faulty capacitor had a 25mm post distance rather than 15mm. Nothing some bending couldn't fix, however. (Pics attached)
  • Now that it's fixed the grind speed seems extra potent. The markings on the capacitor were the same, and the grind results seem the same so maybe it's my imagination.
  • The self tapping screws holding the case together are down really long tapering holes, I had to buy a new screwdriver with a longer shaft to reach them.
  • I had zero issues getting the case back on! Slotted on no bother then tightening the self-tappers really locked everything into place.
  • I got my capacitor here. Fairly cheap and no waste from buying a big multipack or anything.

Again, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this so far. Seems insane so many grinders are possibly being ruined because of such a tiny cheap component.
 

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#53 ·
Well done buddy...and FWIW a cheap capacitor is no different to an expensive capacitor in an expensive grinder, they all die eventually, none last forever...some caps go open-circuit (zero dramatics) and some go short-circuit BOOM 💥🔥:poop:😊 ...no fun when a cap flies past your earhole or bounces off of your glasses :poop::poop:

Enjoy your coffee :coffee:
 
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#54 ·
Similar to @Fizzer and @smurphy, I’ve signed up to this forum just to drop a massive thank you to everyone, especially to @lake_m for figuring out the issue and @EsbenB for the disassembling instructions (very helpful to put everything together). It took me a few months to get all the required material (a really long screwdriver, capacitors with the right size from China), but finally did it and it worked like a charm! I got into soldering for this project, and now I can say it was totally worth it.
 
#55 ·
Hi there,

I have the same issue with my Wilfa Svart coffee grinder. lake m I would like to give it a go as well with soldering a new capacitor. What type of supression capacitor is in the grinder and where did you buy it? Just so I can order it without having to open the grinder twice. Thanks in advance

Cheers
 
#61 · (Edited)
Hi guys, I have just registered to say THANK YOU for the know how given here - I followed the advice, dug out dad's soldering gun and did it - feeling so proud of the man's capacity to subdue even a broken capacitor.
Coffee will never taste the same after this.. VICTORY.
Greetings from Slovakia :)
 
#65 ·
I bought one used and it smells like an electrical fire. Cleaned out the case etc., even left the case off for a few months to "air it out", but no luck.
Can't be healthy. Neither the machine nor the person drinking coffee ground with it.

Anyone know where I might find a replacement motor? It's the "Aroma"/"Classic" one, i.e. black, not silver.
 
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