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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
ok so we're back together! I'll put pictures up soon. I had some leaks which meant I had to take the entire boiler out and put it back in again
:(
:(
:(
but oh well, seems like we have no leaks now. I also had an issue with the e61 not exhausting properly, however that seems fixed now (it seems the new teflon washers were too large and it didn't allow the second from top valve to press on the third valve). Also had some leaks out the mushroom but again seemed like the washers weren't the best fit for the e61, but that's fixed.

BUT, we have a few other issues which are not fixed! They are:

1. There is a hissing noise coming from somewhere when under pressure - it's bloody hard to figure out where it's coming from, however I *think* it is the pressure stat. Now, it may have always done this (this may be normal for pressure stats) but I have no idea as the case was on previously. Mind you, I think I'd have heard it through the case, but I'm not sure. In any case, it's happening now. Is it normal for pressure stats to hiss? If not normal, is it a common issue? It's so hard to be sure what is hissing, so any advice on double checking if it is indeed the pressure stat?

2. My boiler pressure gauge is on the blink, or at least I think it is - it won't go higher than 0.5 bar. With the suspected pressure stat hiss it's very hard to say what is working and what isn't, however I can say for certain when I have removed the gauge is sticks at 0.3 bar, so it certainly seems buggered. Whats the prognosis with this one? Just buy a new one If so, where from? Can't find a quickmill one anywhere! No idea why it would have died during this whole affair either, very odd!

But I can report my water tastes nice from the grouphead now
:D
 

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Is the leak from the stem (threaded section of the P/stat ? if so some PTFE should cure that.

Is the washer in the bottom of the exhaust valve upside down ? (where the water comes out and the spring sits)

REF teflon seals, there is some give in them and they just need a gentle "tweak" to stop leaks,
 

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Check that the anti vac valve isnt leaking. One of the problems with the Andreja is that water spits from the anti vac valve. I think the water level is too high in the Andreja boiler, this saturates the anti vac valve leading to malfunctions. At it's worst water sometimes spits right over the over temp stat and ruins it. (This is also the reason that the top of the boiler was such a mess) The best solution is to get a replacement anti vac valve that can be vented into the drip tray.

A normal Andreja anti vac valve looks like this:-

https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/izzo-thermo-breaker-jag8692-2675.html

I think this is what you need + some silicone pipe

https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/external-anti-vacuum-valve.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Heh already on that one
;)
out of interest, what is the hole in the drip tray there for? It's great to route the pipe to, but what was it first created for?

So anyway - this problem is bizarre. I *think* what has happened is that water has got between the insulation and is now boiling and venting up as steam, but it's sure taking its sweet time to steam off! I know that water will have gotten down there because when I had the leaks the first time water will have seeped down, but I didn't expect it to be taking an hour or whatever to be vented off! I might have to take the insulation off to prove I'm not going mad
:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
WELL BUGGER ME! Theres a bloody little pinhole in the top joint of the boiler. No idea if this has always been there, surely not caused by citric acid?! (perhaps the holes were blocked by scale and the acid "fixed" it!) See this video:

[video=youtube;fT0JYMnu-C4]


And a pic:

IMG_4339.jpg

So, how do I fix that sucka??!!
 

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meph137 said:
Open it out just a touch, use a very small drill bit...you are really trying to clean it....then use a blowtorch and some silver solder. Don't forget to use some flux. try to spread the silver solder out a little over the brazed joint, which will help hold it. Loctight is not really the way to do it.

P.S. Don't worry if the Silver solder is not lead free....it will stick better and that little tiny morsel of lead won't do you any harm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So I've got it all back together, I haven't done the silver solder as my wife is expecting any day now and I really can't face stripping it all down again (nor can she!!) so I've used epoxy for the time being - I'll repair it properly soon. I'll get a full load of pictures up soon too.

I believe the machine is suffering from vapor lock though - it's happened twice now where I open the steam wand (after the machine has been on for some time) and no steam comes out. It doesn't happen all the time, just some of the time. I understand this is due to the anti-vacuum valve staying closed and a 'false' pressure being present in the boiler. I don't fully understand how a false pressure would develop, or if one was present why the anti-vacuum valve would open (pressure is pressure right?) so maybe someone can educate me on how exactly they work?
:)


Anyway, mine is brand new and is mounted in the boiler as shown below and feeds in to the drip tray - it feels like having the pipe on top in this manner would cause problems (as water will collect and sit on top of the bearing in the anti-vac valve), but maybe I'm wrong. Is is mounted ok? If so, perhaps I've got a dodgy valve?

4bB7qCgyQwMPTW5KPENCQWpkIkoYAo.png
 

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No one puts Milly in the corner :)
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I can't help with your query but blooming well done with this! It's so good to see what you have done
:)


And congratulations to you both on the forthcoming event! I hope you can raise a cup of coffee to celebrate
:)
 

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You will need loads of it soon enough!
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Haha cheers - yes I will needs lots soon!! So yesterday I opened the machine up and moved the ball bearing in the anti vac valve - it was indeed stuck. After I did that I could hear the ball moving when the machine warmed up so all was well. I warned the machine up a few times and cooled it down and each time I could hear the ball move.

Just now I turned the machine back on and I couldn't hear the ball move, so I activated the steam wand and it indeed there was no steam. I turned the machine off, and used the steam wand to get rid of any steam (hardly any) and kept the wand open. I then tried to blow down the anti vac valve tube in my drip tray and I can't move the thing!

So, seems a bit dodgy - it seems the ball is getting stuck closed and even blowing very hard down the tube when no pressure is on the other side won't free it.

Dodgy valve?
 

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Owner of a new to me 15 year old Andreja Premium. I'm so sad to find this post years too late! Did you ever figure out what was going on with the vacuum breaker valve? That's one of the things I want to do.
 

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Are you having problems with the anti vac valve ? They are quite simple / easy valves to take apart and clean.
If that does not resolve it a new one is £5 --£10, Check the thread size
 

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Are you having problems with the anti vac valve ? They are quite simple / easy valves to take apart and clean.
If that does not resolve it a new one is £5 --£10, Check the thread size
Nope, I am having zero issues thankfully. I think my machine was vert well cared for. I am looking forward to a teardown of my own though. Right now I'm lucky enough to have my neighbors Olympia Cremina on my counter as well. I'm doing a quick group cleaning on that machine and then I'd like to open up mine.

Mainly just to get a visual of everything. I also want to put in some dynamat on the walls. The only other mod I'd really like to do while I'm at it is to 'upgrade' the antivac valve with one that's routed to the steam tray. It seems wild that it's just offing steam inside the case like that.

One of these days I'd like to play around with my OPV as well. I think my andreja runs very hot. I have a grouphead thermometer and it's pretty common to flush from ~217 all the way down to 195, weight, grind, and tamp, and then flush again from like 212 all the way back down to 199. I think it could stand to drop the pressure a bit at the OPV and have it run a little cooler. Am I doing that thermo correctly?
 

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The temperature is controlled by the pressure stat and can be adjusted via the screw in the centre (minute adjustments). If the temp is swinging too much it is probably burnt contacts and requires replacing.
 
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