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@jimbojohn55 sorry I meant did you paint the lens hood yourself, I've gone through the whole thread and knew that you did all of the refurb yourself it just seemed like you never mentioned the lens hood (unless I missed something) I would definitely be interested in a lid if you ever start selling them!

So how much does your lens hood hold? Excuse my ignorance and maybe this is for another thread but the SJ I have just agreed to buy is setup for single dosing. But on an earlier post in this thread somebody suggested that's not a good idea. So if you put more than you required dose of beans into the hopper/hood how do you know how long the machine needs to run for to get the output you require? Do you have to manual time every grind or do you have to weigh the portfilter?

Again excuse my ignorance, before seeing this thread I had never even considered an SJ as my grinder and therefore never read up about them at all.
 
Kyle T said:
@jimbojohn55 sorry I meant did you paint the lens hood yourself, I've gone through the whole thread and knew that you did all of the refurb yourself it just seemed like you never mentioned the lens hood (unless I missed something) I would definitely be interested in a lid if you ever start selling them!

So how much does your lens hood hold? Excuse my ignorance and maybe this is for another thread but the SJ I have just agreed to buy is setup for single dosing. But on an earlier post in this thread somebody suggested that's not a good idea. So if you put more than you required dose of beans into the hopper/hood how do you know how long the machine needs to run for to get the output you require? Do you have to manual time every grind or do you have to weigh the portfilter?

Again excuse my ignorance, before seeing this thread I had never even considered an SJ as my grinder and therefore never read up about them at all.
Single dosing has basically been proven to be a bad idea. The grind changes drastically from the start of the grind to the end, and makes things very inconsistent, whereas adding weight on a small amount of beans gives a good consistent grind.

Without something like and external Auber timer (or internal if you want to mod) you just have to eyeball the grind time.
 
Discussion starter · #143 ·
Hi @Kyle T

The lens hood is black rubber - so it goes well with a black mazzer - it has a aluminium ring in its base that fits in the neck of the mazzer.

As Dylan points out - single dosing is not a good idea as the beans jump about or popcorn in the hopper unless you put enough in and keep it topped up - you can get around 100g in it which works fine.

after thinking about it this am ive ordered 5 lens hoods and will turn some lids for them and offer them on the forum - not sure of price yet but probably around £15 posted.

when I run my mazzer I count up to 10 - then lever the grounds into the portafilter, I then check the weight of the coffee in the portafilter on the scales - this will usually provide around 13-15g - I then grind a bit more or use a teaspoon to pop a bit back in the hopper.

hope this makes sence - cheers Jim
 
jimbojohn55 said:
Hi @Kyle T

The lens hood is black rubber - so it goes well with a black mazzer - it has a aluminium ring in its base that fits in the neck of the mazzer.

As Dylan points out - single dosing is not a good idea as the beans jump about or popcorn in the hopper unless you put enough in and keep it topped up - you can get around 100g in it which works fine.

after thinking about it this am ive ordered 5 lens hoods and will turn some lids for them and offer them on the forum - not sure of price yet but probably around £15 posted.

when I run my mazzer I count up to 10 - then lever the grounds into the portafilter, I then check the weight of the coffee in the portafilter on the scales - this will usually provide around 13-15g - I then grind a bit more or use a teaspoon to pop a bit back in the hopper.

hope this makes sence - cheers Jim
Ahhhh ok, might need to get myself some shiney new scales capable of weighing a portafilter then
:D
Give me a shout when you have the lens hoods as i would defo have one. Are you planning on only doing wood lids? or can you do a black lid to make it all black?
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·
Many people (including myself) also use a perspex/broscillite tube in the throat of their mazzer and a aluminium or steel rod for a weight, gives you a few more beans to play with which is useful especially if you are making more than one drink.

The lens hood can still be stretched over the tube to act as a puffer.
 
Discussion starter · #148 ·
Dylan said:
Many people (including myself) also use a perspex/broscillite tube in the throat of their mazzer and a aluminium or steel rod for a weight, gives you a few more beans to play with which is useful especially if you are making more than one drink.

The lens hood can still be stretched over the tube to act as a puffer.
any pics - I'm curious?
 
I'm sure oak would do the job, might be a tad light but I would't know!

58OD and 51ID if I remember rightly.

It was a bit loose however so had an elastic band with some gaffa style tape over it to provide a snug fit. Mine is borosilicate rather than plastic, but I reckon plastic is probably a better bet.
 
Discussion starter · #152 ·
RichD1 said:
Hi @jimbojohn55

I've already got the lens hood but I would like a cover and one for the doser please? Don't know what woods you've got but I made our kitchen in European Oak so that would be a good match.

Let me know.

Richard
Hi @Rich D1

it was oak that I used - will keep you posted as I should have some time next week, will PM re details tomorrow

cheers Jim
 
Discussion starter · #154 ·
Mazzer doser bolt removal - I am part of the way through another SJ refurb but wanted to detail the doser bolt removal issue with some better pics and the tecneque that's worked for me now without problem on 2 occasions.

Tools required M5 Bolt, M13 socket, preferably an impact driver as well but I imagine a standard socket driver will do.

all over the tinterweb you will find reference to 1 tap out the pin ( a hammer and a nail will do this) then wedge the brass cog with the nose of a pair of tapered pliers before using a 13mm socket to remove the bolt after a lot of swearing. - This method has several issues - only certain pliers with the right taper will wedge and hold the cog - quite often leading to fractures in the exit Shute casting.

My preferred method - now used twice without issue - (yeah yeah only twice - but keep reading)

to wedge the cog I use an M5 bolt - the thread acts to grip both the cog and the rear metal of the shute - an M5 is the optimum size to wedge where the casting is at its thickest . I then use an M13 socket on an impact driver - and within a couple of seconds Bing - thebolts undone. - here are some close up pics

Note pic 4 shows the marks where the thread grips the shute casting exactly where its at its thickest

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Thanks! It turns out I was using the wrong search terms. I am trying to aquire a second hand super jolly as my first grinder (I am stuck with a blade grinder which is sat unused) and going by the condition of most I see, I won't be able to stop myself giving it a bit of tlc!
 
Discussion starter · #158 ·
Just a quick addendum to this thread as im refurbing another SJ for a family member - the removal of the lower burr carrier on mazzers and other grinders has always been a pain so I thought about time I nocked something up from scrap -

For info if anyone wants to make one - scribe around an old burr on some alu plate then drill and tap three M4 holes with an M10 in the centre

Remove the centre bolt an the burr carrier and the lower burr then -

Screw the disc onto the top of the burr with 3 m4 bolts (longer than the ones that hold the burr in place - them tighten down the M10 and up it comes without any drama - The m10 bolt presses on the centre shaft without damage to the thread or carrier

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