Coffee Forums banner
41 - 54 of 54 Posts
Whoa! Okay, I got it disassembled and I think it is all original from 2006. The shower block has 3/4 water channels blocked and a lot of corrosion. The gasket (I think) is original and was so brittle that it came out in pieces. Here are some of the pictures of what I found and why regular descaling (and deep cleaning) is important.

Drain Font Circle Button Metal


Cuisine Dish Circle Automotive wheel system Metal


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle
 

Attachments

This is why you order replacement bolts before you tear down your machine for cleaning! These boiler bolts took a LOT more force to remove than I was comfortable with, but they did come out eventually.

d410f208943a20f4bd4e3a438aed8f5e.jpg
1fc7ae94a35333e32d4028abe7b77301.jpg


Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk
 
That machine has had a hard life!

Yuck.
Yeah, you could say that. :(

I've taken the instructions in the 2nd post and modified them for my own use. This is what I do now, though I'm sure some of it is redundant.

For best results use filtered water in your machine and descale at least once per month (weekly in hard-water areas).

Note: Try to minimize the amount of time that the machine is switched on since the descaler works best when the machine is NOT hot.

Step 1: Fill your water reservoir with 1.5l of water and dissolve approx 30g of Puly Cleaner / Gaggia Descaler or similar product
Step 2: Remove shower screen and (optionally) shower block and set these aside.
Step 3: Open the steam valve fully and place a large mug, bowl, or other suitable waste container under the steam wand
Step 4: Switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run descaler through the steam wand for approx 15-20 seconds
Step 5: Flip all switches off and close the steam wand. Move waste container under the group head.
Step 6: Switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run descaler through the group head for approx 10 seconds
Step 7: Flip all switches off
Step 8: Place the shower screen, block, and fasteners into the waste mug/bowl to soak in descaler if needed.
Step 9: (Optional) Latch your portafilter fitted with a blanking basket to the machine, then switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run descaler through the Over-Pressure Valve (OPV) for about 10 seconds, then alternate switching the pump (Right switch) off/on/off/on for a few seconds to run descaler through the solenoid valve (waste water should vent into the tray).
Step 10: Switch off your machine again (do not allow the boiler to warm up as descaling is best done cold)
Step 11: Wait at least 10 minutes (longer if possible) for the descaler to soak throughout the system
Step 12: Remove portafilter (if used), and drain contents into tray. Remove shower screen items from mug/bowl and clean gently under fresh water.
Step 13: Switch the machine back on and run the remaining descaler through the grouphead and steam arm until almost empty. Then switch the machine off and allow to cool.
Step 14: Remove the water reservoir and wash and dry. Fill water reservoir to the "Max" line with fresh filtered water
Step 15: Install shower screen and shower block (if removed)
Step 16: Switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run the fresh water through the grouphead and steam arm (whilst cold) until tank is half empty.
Step 17: Pull a shot and discard it (do not drink)
Step 18: Refill water reservoir to the "Max" line with fresh filtered water

Your machine is now ready for use again
 
Use only approved/Suitable descaler in the Aluminium Gaggias.

In clear language, this is Gaggias own.

I could go on about the whats and the why but it just creates forum frishion. :classic_ninja:
I use Tartaric Acid in mine (I believe thats what Gaggia originally used). It's meant to be better for Aluminium Boilers i'm told. Anybody know why Gaggia switched to using Citric.
 
I think it is a good idea (Step 2) to remove the shower screen and block during a de-scale, especially if you have not done one for a while. Any small flakes of scale which get dislodged will then not be caught behind the shower screen and so get stuck somewhere.

Also with the screen and shower block off it is a good time to give them a good clean, and then i do a back flush around step 15, to check that the 3-way is working and clean. 👍
 
The bottle of Gaggia Decalcificante descaler I've just used Lactic acid based.

https://www.descaler.co.uk/gaggia-decalcificante-descaler/ (I didn't buy from this site, but it's a good description)

also

https://www.descaler.co.uk/articles/difference-lactic-citric-acid/
Thanks for the interesting read.

I have never, ever see any quantifiable clear explanation of how dangerous it is to use citric acid with the Gaggia aluminium boiler. When the Gaggier Users Group was still in operation, the knowledgeable mods there said that the use of citric acid didn't really matter unless you were leaving the solution in the boiler for extended periods---they were happy to recommend it.

And then of course some people are extremely cagey about the issue and say that it is really dangerous to the aluminium.

I would love to see a clear experiment showing me just how dangerous it is to use citric acid with the aluminium boiler. Does anybody have a boiler they want to soak over several hours/days and take pictures at different time intervals so we can answer this question once and for all?
 
Acetone is commonly used to free corroded parts and hydraulic oil on its own is known to creep all over the place combined they produce a very effective freeing agent I will find some evidence but if your wife has a bottle of nail polish remover bag a little bit of that and add an equal amount of hydraulic oil and try it on something you will be pleased. WD40 uses another oil, paraffin is think.
 
41 - 54 of 54 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.