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@Like Medium Strong Coffee I think the reason that people attack it from the bottom is that the white spacer ring is compressed to centre the piston. So if it's removed from the top makes it tricky to slide back in as you need to relieve tension of the piston first, hence the need for this tool. If you have a tool, there is no need to touch the 4 bolts at the top of the group. This was from the same HB thread mentioned earlier.
 
I've read that the cylinder diameter is 50mm so the piston will be slightly less.

I have some 51mm thick walled tube blanks bought for making Londinium seal cones so intend to make a tool for my Leva when the machine arrives. Could easily be turned down to 50mm on a lathe. Doesn't look to be an easy job as a certain amount of accurate milling will be needed. Alternatively, I may get away with drilling four holes in the tube face and pressing in pins that will engage in the cut outs on the piston, I'll see when I get the machine.
hi @Norvin i'd also be interested if you have the enough blanks, and when you get around to it - also not planning on opening up for the longest possible time.

curious why @Jony is opening up his - perhaps to remove one of the springs on one of the groups?
 
curious why @Jony is opening up his - perhaps to remove one of the springs on one of the groups?
Someone should tell him the on switch isn't inside the group😂

That's the problem when you leave it unused for months - you forget the basics
 
Hey @DavecUK or @The Systemic Kid, do you mind sharing on how you adjust the preinfusion? Any chance of video on how to do that?
If you mean adjust PI pressure, this is easily done via adjusting the pressurestat to the desired bar pressure you want to use. The group pressure gauge will provide the necessary feedback.
 
If you mean adjust PI pressure, this is easily done via adjusting the pressurestat to the desired bar pressure you want to use. The group pressure gauge will provide the necessary feedback.
Yup, I mean the PI Pressure. But again, where is this actually done? On the panel? Or is there something inside that has to be adjusted?
 
Less of that. If you like to know the spring came fitted wrong way round from the factory and wasn't checked 😁
Bugger! Was that on one group or both?
 
Hey @DavecUK or @The Systemic Kid, do you mind sharing on how you adjust the preinfusion? Any chance of video on how to do that?
Undo 4 allen screws and lift off top cover. The photo is of a machine being assembled in the factory. The pressurestat is highlighted with a green arrow. Turn the screw in the top anticlockwise to decrease PI pressure and clockwise to increase it. I can't do a video, because I don't have a production machine. If I could do a video it would only be of turning a screw.

Once adjusted, do a shot and if you want more/less adjust again. once happy, screw down the top cover again.

 

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What have I started?

I think the idea of pressing pins into the face should work. I had a special tool for removing the wheel bearing retaining ring on a Suzuki Jimny that was made like this and it worked really well. The rings were ridiculously tight.
I think pressing pins in versus cutting or milling the pins from a pipe is a much better idea.

When I look at the factory tool and the DIY ones, they were made from round stock. It may be obvious but that leaves the most important work - the leverage required to unscrew a tightly seated piston - to a pencil sized pin which may slip in the hole or worse, in hand, and although not catastrophic, it does not make the job easy.

Attached is a picture from a tool I have that does the same type of work - it torques down a part through rotation. The tool has a 6" long handle made out of flat 1/2" steel stock. The head is milled down to 1/4". At the end of the tool is a hole to insert a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

The same can be applied to a LSM piston tool - made from strong flat stock with pins of the right sizes pressed or simply screwed in. Length of the pins would be as long as necessary to the bottom face of the group head meets the top of the tool face. This tool then almost completely eliminates any chance of slippage or misfit. Works well in disassembly or re-assembly.

Unfortunately I do not have a shop or any machines so I cannot do this myself.

 

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One group.
@Jony That was almost a year ago, you were advised to contact Paolo for instructions on how to turn the spring over in the second group...have you still not done it.

https://www.home-barista.com/levers/installing-izzo-pompeii-piston-in-group-t25094-20.html#p293547

This tells you how, if you want to retain the same spring tension, mark the point the spring is compressed to before undoing the nut. Try not to damage the chrome if you clamp the top of the group in anything.

Only the top part of the group needs to be removed, 4 bolts. As you have never used that Vostock second group, it should be completely clean.
 
Been playing around with PI times. Yesterday, pulled some shots and refracted the results using a light Columbian roast which came out at a smidgeon above and under 20% - no sourness. PIs for shots were in the 15-18sec range.

Wanted to see what happened if I ground even finer. Pulled a couple of shots where PI times were 24 sec and 32 secs to first drops. First shot completed in 43 secs, second in 53 secs. PI pressure is just under 2 bar. Ratio pulled was 1:2ish.

Taste-wise, yesterday's shots had balanced acidity - lots of tangerine - no lingering sourness. Today's shots weren't markedly different - any acidity present in yesterday's shots even more muted.

Because the Evo Leva's group is independently heated via elements, this means, once water for the shot is pumped into the group, the brew boiler plays no further role, temperature-wise. Water in the group chamber is controlled accurately via the group heater elements. But is this important?

With a conventional lever, no heat goes into the water in the group chamber once it has been filled. Shot is reliant on the residual heat of the large group mass to retain brew water temperature. This isn't necessarily an issue if your PIs are short but once you go long - well into double seconds, there will be a marked drop in temperature both in PI time and total shot. So with the Evo Leva, you have another variable to play with. With lighter roasts, the received wisdom is higher extraction temps which you can do easily by raising the group heater temps. Would seem from the above, by gentle pre-infusing over a much longer time, you can get similar results by not hiking shot extraction temp.

All this is need of further testing and it will be great when more Evo Leva owners get theirs and start posting their findings. Looking forward to a user knowledge base developing. What is abundantly clear, Evo Leva can be a simple and forgiving to use as you want as well as offering the ability to play around and adjust to personal preference.
 
Yep it seems the ssp burrs dont pair so nice with huge pressure.

You will end up removing one spring or change the grinder.

Taste is king, and the most important, but 20% EY is pretty low and I put the blame on the burrs/grinder. cause they dont work nice at 8-11 bars. Thank you for testing.

While I do have ssp unimodal burrs grinders here, I will use my main grinder that likes hammer type shots with huge pressure.
 
Wanted to see what happened if I ground even finer. Pulled a couple of shots where PI times were 24 sec and 32 secs to first drops. First shot completed in 43 secs, second in 53 secs. PI pressure is just under 2 bar. Ratio pulled was 1:2ish.

Taste-wise, yesterday's shots had balanced acidity - lots of tangerine - no lingering sourness. Today's shots weren't markedly different - any acidity present in yesterday's shots even more muted.
Thanks Patrick. Assume, the group head temp remain unchanged. Did you measure the EY for this experiment please ?
 
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